92 EG street Car build from VA

[ProEG]

What's up everyone my name is Gabriel from VA. I am getting started with my first Kswap by myself. I used to own an 02 EP3 with a SCk24a2, I rolled the car, and parted out the car. As the years went on, I could resist I had to have another Honda. So I bought the Honda I always wanted, a 92 EG hatchback. Why..?? because I couldn't settle on a DC2 chassis or the car I wanted....a 2000lb hatch that handled great. So I found a hatch for $2,000 with a 96 GSR swap already. Now it was time to save money for the K. As of a few months ago I was ready. After following K20a.org for many years, I knew where to find sources. I found Hybrid Racing.

Thank you HYbrid Racing for all the help so far and this week I will be calling in reference to hooking up the conversion harness. Hybrid Racing has a good business and I like the way they do business. Hybrid hooked me up, so I will always rep them and push their business in front of anyone. This is what I got so far (on K20a.org you have to take pictures of every thing or they won't believe you) without taking pictures of every little part:

04 K20a2 w/ 6K on the title (sourced from K20a.org $3,010)
IPS K2 and Eibach and Blueprint Racing Valvetrain
04 TypeS 4.3 6speed (came with engine)
Kpro (sourced from K20a.org $1,000)
Hasport Mounts (sourced from K20a.org $450 new)
Rcrew Header (sourced from K20a.org $450 new)
Hybrid Racing Conversion Harness (HR)
Hybrid Racing Full Size Radiator (HR)
Two Slim Fans (HR)
K-Tuned PS/AC delete kit (HR)
Radiator Hoses (HR)
Golden Eagle Fuel Rail (sourced from K20a.org $50 new)
Hybrid Racing Fuel Line Kit (HR)
Hybrid Racing Promo Fuel Pressure Regulator & Gauge (HR)
walbro fuel pump (HR)
Throttle Cable (HR)
Hybrid Racing Shifter Cables (HR)
Hybrid Racing Short Shifter Box (HR)
Karcepts shifter box plate (HR)
Hybrid Racing Clutch Line (HR)
OEM coolant & Fan switch sensor (HR)
Bosch 02 Sensor (HR)
Driveshaft Level 0 Road Race Kswap Axles (HR)
DC5 Charge Harness (HR)
New fuel clips, shifter clips, Orings, new OEM fuel filter (Acura Dealership)
New SS flex for exhaust
3" SRI (45 deg prebent tubing-Vibrant)
Kosei 15X7 13lb Race Wheels

Right now I plan to run my existing 2.5" exhaust, some of it will include some new piping and new resinator. I have run out of money for a new exhaust and would rather make my own. I am still undecided to run 3" with a stock K20A2 H/I/Kpro. For right now it will be 2.5". Since I have run out of money, I can't do anything thing with my suspension. The EG came with Dropzone coilovers and an upgraded front compliance bushings. The guy I bought my engine from threw in a DC2-R rear sway bar, so I have some thing new at least. I will get to upgrading the suspension down road when money comes in. Here is a list of somethings I want to do to the car in the next few years:
LSD
Excedy Stage2 clutch
Custom Oil Catch Can System
Custom Heat Exchanger to cool fuel
Re-plumbing fuel lines
Roll cage
Rework all functioning suspension parts
Paint the outside and inside of car

Well here are some pics of what I got going on. I built an 8pt. upper rear strut bar/b-pillar/c-pillar system this week end. I welded my engine mount brackets and engine mount housing, and stitch welded the engine bay seams. I plan to continue stiffening the chassis cuz it's fun to do man!!
Kosei 15X7
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The 8AN/6AN fitting I sell for $4 shipped
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Ep3 seats w/ Sparco 4pt harness bar
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92 Black EG w/ rear disc conversion
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stitch welding in engine bay
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[ProEG]

I stitch welder driverside engine mount housing to make sure it was strong since I am putting a K in vs. D series for security reasons and it looks cool
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Topside of driver side engine mount housing, now it isn't going anywhere,I also welded the front and backsides as well
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Welded Hasport engine mount bracket on passenger side cause the two bolts really are not enough in my opinion. I do not want future wear to weaken so now I know it isn't going to fail or shift over time. I did both sides bTW
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painted engine bay black with ghetto talent use of spray can. I have already made the touch ups with my ghetto skillz. I am mad fast
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Had to trim slim fan some so I could fit two..Why?? It was in the way of slipping the hose on the weldneck a little and I didn't want to have to struggle getting the hose off or on
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[ProEG]

Well I got bored this weekend waiting for my engine to come in. I wanted an upper rear strut bar, sold mine with the GSR engine. So I one thing lead to another and I came up with this. I am tired of seeing standard aftermarket stuff, everyone has the same stuff and it's like wow..you got what I got. IS that JDM..or is that ebay...or is that overpriced. I made this with around 3.5hrs labor and all free material. So much fun I wish I had another car to do it to..
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C-pillar 2 strut 2 b-pillar
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Add Another bar the rear chassis for fun...
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Not bad welding, even with the $400 welder I picked up from Northern Tools
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Finish Product
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I think I might add another stiffener underneath the rear strut bar, like a kicker some would call it. OH well laugh if you want. I think it looks cool for not costing a dime......And I can get the spare tire out. Some of those password JDM bars you can't do that with so I win hands down. What do you think hybrid racing..??

[JDMEK4COUPE]

Update pics?

[ProEG]

The current state. Dead in the water until I get a new valve cover in the mail. It is going to be red. I have added some ground wires and completed conversion harness. Everything is ready to go, EP3 seats in, shifter installed, Hybrid racing cables in-use. I am ready for start up with KPRO, which I know nothing about. the hybrid racing radiator looks great!
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This is the pic of the 1st gen Rcrew header that I welded a flex on. I had to weld that bar across cuz the header fittment suxked bad. The flex is .5" under Karcepts plate, I had to heat and bend every bend and weld joint to get the header to pull up, and I welded the bar their wrapped in SS hose to keep the header where I want it for now
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Some pics of the header. I am sure I will have some bugs to work out, but I know the wiring is on point and done right.
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[ProEG]

just waiting on a new valve cover and it will be time for start up

[casesofcoke]

I cant see pics but it sounds nice. Have a good one! - Casey

[Bossman]

excellant.:)

[ProEG]

funny, i can see pics. I have added some ground wires since latest pics. I am going to change them all and run them to a bus terminal. I also want to get the battery in the back of the car and out the fuse box on the inside. I plan to work on that while I am waiting for the valve cover to come in I scored for $40 of K20a.org from Andrie. thanks.

[JDMEK4COUPE]

nice bro! keep it up!

[ProEG]

IN continuing my ghetto fabrications, which are always based on spending as less money as possible, I decided to relocate my battery re-using the battery tray. I welded it to my bars and made a support bracket for it as well. Now I have to make a cover for it...I am waiting for the my ghetto team to get back with me with some ideas. It was kind of simple and could be taken apart in 5 minutes. I just don't have access to a welding machine that welds aluminum or I would of made a box. I have a 4'X4' sheet of it at the house
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Another shot from the rear, kind of tall...I am undecided if I should move it or not. It is all hooked up with power to the fuse box and charge harness. I have decided where I am going to relocate the battery again as soon as I make a aluminum box for it. It just looks funny there...
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I am trying to catch a shot at those infamous Hybrid cables..
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Still waiting on my valve cover to come in the mail, then it will be go time. I filled the radiator up today and primed the clutch. I hate the feel of a stock clutch....it makes me feel like there is still air in the line and needs to be primed more. Maybe I will prime it one more time for fun while I am waiting on the valve cover. Thanks

[ProEG]

My new valve cover came in and it was painted red and kind of worn looking. So I sanded it down and painted it black. I like the black look better than red or silver. I am planning on starting her up on Saturday. I didn't do any wire tucking, so I used nice rubber insulated clamps to hold everything down with. They do have a nice look to them.

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My niext project after I get the car running and tuned is a custom made aluminum oil catch can to go in the place of where the battery was located. Kind of give the engine bay a racer look and keep the intake a little cleaner. I just need to use a tig welder. Time to source cause I have a 4'X4' aluminum sheet on hand. I will make two and sell the other one with the brackets to someone who has moved their battery as well.

[ProEG]

Another shot, I really like the way the kseries engines look in the engine bays of eg's and dc2's. The ep3, dc5, and Fg's are cramped engine bays and do not give the "stand out" look to the engines. I have let plenty of room for upgrading my power plant, so am excited I can keep the "fever" alive with this project. I feel cams, RBC, and upgrading the rest of exhaust will give some more useable power. I was thinking supercharger.....I want useable power that is responsive in a 2000lb car. Believe me 300whp in this car would be plenty fast and without sticky tires would be useless in the lower gears. My tuner and good friend ownes a 2001 ITR with a K20a2 supercharged but runs Hooiser R6 compund tires on Motegi ultralites, he runs the shit out of it at road courses like VIR and Summit Point. IT is crazy fast, it over powers GT3's....keeps up with Vipers in the straights...hangs all day with cup Z06's. Running 103 VP fuel helps and he is a good driver of 20 years experience. My point is running a boosted EG on the streets looks like useless lower gears and watching videos of K24's barely keeping traction until they hit the end of 3rd doesn't look like fun. I used to own a SCK24a2 making 270whp in an Ep3 and it would break the tires loose all day in the lower gears. I know what will happen if I had 270whp in a 2000lb EG.

My point being I am going to try NA for a while, unless this car turns into a full on road course car then I might go supercharger so I can keep the revs set at 8500rpm and have plenty of TQ.
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[JDMEK4COUPE]

Wooo Woooot!

DAMMM! Awesome Work!

Nice Fabrications...

[ProEG]

car is running and fast as hell. the idle is a little off but is getting better each time I drive it with Kpro. I have the engine set at 8200 rpm. The car has a base CAI map loaded up.

My fittings to my heater core are smashed and will not seal w/o leaks. So I need to get a new heater core or put some new fittings on the end. Right now I am just looping the system.

I need to figure why I have no fan at all...

[TypeOne]

I need to figure why I have no fan at all...


How do you have it connected?

[ProEG]

the same way I took it apart. I am going to have to go over everything again and retry

[JDMEK4COUPE]

already fix the problem?

[ProEG]

no I haven't fixed the fan. i have the fans on the radiator working fine, it is just the fan under the dash that doesn't work

[JDMEK4COUPE]

the wiring under the dash?

[ProEG]

correct, i have been sick as hell from Hep-C and haven't got around to working on the car. I am just thankful I have gotten this far throughout all this pain and sickness. I am thankful to have a K swap. I deserve it for everything I have been through the past 10 years.

[TypeOne]

We hope you feel better.

Best wishes,

-David

[casesofcoke]

We hope you feel better.

Best wishes,

-David

(x2)--Casey

[JDMEK4COUPE]

I hope that you receive the right treatment and have releive bro;););).

[ProEG]

thanks alot guys..it means alot. I got out in my car today on the highway and got a big smile. this STI was trying to pick on my sleeper, keep showing off his blow off valve and did a ricer fly by. I am thinking what a dush, so I slowly caught up to him in 6th gear, as soon as I got to his bumper I downshift into 5th. Now I had his attention, he looked over and smiled like another Bswap guy, then I downshifted into 4th and blew his doors off, he had no chance. So I let him catch up and creep down to 60mph, I let him get up to my door and dumped it into 3rd. I pulled right out in front of him, passed him, then watched him get smaller in the rear view. Dude was like damn I was not expecting that. I have 13lb wheels and a Kswap with quick gearing. For a stock engine, I have some killer top end that STI got killed on the highway roll.

Now that made me feel on top of the world and have been feeling not so sick today. The Hybrid cables mixed with the short shifter really help out. IT makes the car fly through the gears so much better. Thanks again for the hopes guys

[JDMEK4COUPE]

Dammm! Awesome! Nice to hear that!:D

[ProEG]

i love this swap..... it revs so fast even with the typeS final drive... :)

[JDMEK4COUPE]

Take a vid for us!

[TypeOne]

Eventhough I own an STi, I used to murder stock ones in my K20 EK. Evo's and STi's had nothing on my on a roll.. From a 30 roll.. 3rd gear I would be walking past them.

I did get rolled on by an Evo 9 with cams, turbo mani, ect and a tune. Pulled me 1 car until 120..

[ProEG]

it baffles me just how quick this little hatch is and I am missing a LSD. With a good set of cams, typeR pistons, Z1 oil pump, and upgraded valvetrain how much faster the car would be. I remember when I owned an EP3 with a SCK24a2, I managed to reduce the weight by 100lbs. The car was fast even with the EP3 5 speed. Now comparing the car I have now being it is 600lbs lighter and have upgrade axles, short shifter, hybrid racing shifter cables, typeS tranny, and 13lb Kosei 15X7 wheels...I swear that my EG is quicker in the sprints and the 4th gear in the EG pulls harder. In fact I like the NA K20a2 in the EG better than an EP3 SCK24a2. It is funner to drive call me crazy but keeping in mind how much more power is left in my bone stock K20A2 it can only rev faster and develop more TQ out of this 2L.

All of the bars that I welded in the back of the car have really helped stiffen up the car and makes the car feel so much better in hard turning. I am glad I transformed the car to a semi-race car.

[JDMEK4COUPE]

Nice to hear that bro! keep it up!

[ProEG]

Well I have some bad news Kseries.org. I have put less than 250 miles on this engine and the engine is broke. I have only hit the rev limiter once and have it set at 8100rpm. I was driving the car friday and pulled 4th gear to 7000rpm, then shifter into 5th. I slow down to a stop. Then the engine starts knocking. By the sound of it , it sounds like a rod bearing failure. I pulled the car over and shut her down and got the car towed as soon as I heard the knocking. While waiting for the tow I locked the engine bay over.

I noticed that my drive axle, A BRAND NEW AXLE I BOUGHT FROM DRIVESHAFT, through Hybrid Racing had leaked all of its lube all over the subframe. These are brand new Level 0 road race axles....WTF..?? I am trying to figure out why this happened with the axle as well as the block. Why did my engine fall apart? Could the axle failing have caused this..??

I have sunk all of my money into this swap and have no money to fix it or replace the block. Now I have no money to further my Hep-C treatment this winter. All of the money I am trying to earn was going towards my Hep-C treatment this winter. I am laid off and have no heath insurance. I am in a bad spot. I am hoping Hybrid Racing can help out with finding out what to do with the brand new axles I bought from them. This really sucks and I am not sure where to go with this swap/project.

Right now I am forced to walk door to door house to house explaining to people the I have Hep-C and am sick right now and beg for work to raise money to get my source of transportation so I can work and raise money to get treatment for Hep-C. This is very upsetting to me and is embarissing. I have no choice. I took out a loan to buy the engine I have now...which was not smart and I will never do again.

I am trying to figure if it would be best to part out my cylinder head (K20A2) complete, sell the bare block, sell the crank if it is not damaged, sell the pistons, oil pump, and what ever else I can; then buy a longblock. Or keep the cylinder head and buy a shortblock.

If anyone can help in any way please, God will bless you in return. I am taking any advice. I am trying to raise money trough donations into my paypal account...gppb01chopper@gmail.com. $1 would help out, thank you.

I have a OEM 1/2 size radiator, eg typeR rear sway bar, K20a2 power steering pump, OEM fuel rail, OEM K20A2 exhaust manifold for sale as well.

I am in disbelielf that this has happened to me and only got to drive this once incredible swap for 250 miles. I have no choice but to fix it cause I have so much money invested in swap parts. Thanks for reading and any help.----Gabriel

[ProEG]

The temp gauges read normal when knocking accoured. The engine was a little hot. I am not sure why the failure happened after 250 miles of me driving it.

[ProEG]

i am going to order a set of good rod bearings and replace all the bearings and see if that fixes the knock which I am pretty sure it will. Then run the best oil on the market AMSOIL then see how things go. I will drive the car normal and not race it. I just want a car to drive. Now I have to get my axle problem figured out.

My clutch doesn't need to be replaced, that is something I can do later. I plan at some point to do a simple build on the engine with a spec bottom end and CNC ported head with cams. I just need to get the car running and save the money. This something that will take a few years to save and do and that is how long I hope that just replacing the bearing will hold me to.

Everyone wish me luck. In a few years I would like to have a high revving 2L with cams converting my Honda over to a weekend driver. In a few years I will have a DD and garaged Honda for play. I am hoping that replacing the bearings which may have develoed rust or something cause the engine has been just sitting since 04 without oil on it. Which makes sense, some reving then bang. This was sopmething that was going to happen sooner or later, it just happened sooner.

I am hoping that Hybrid Raing can help out some way with my axle, so I can order the bearings and get the car running again without breaking my bank. It is hard having health problems and having toys. I really needed this Honda in my life and plan to keep it running. Hopefully the bearing replacement will work and things will get back to normal and I can save slowly for a complete rebuild of the engine with a 12.5:1 compression cams and a 9500rpm redline.

One thing I have learned after I found out that I had HEp-C was that life is short and to enjoy the little things in life. I have found that after getting off drugs and alcohol 8 years ago that revving a Honda and driving such a spirited car can bring much joy to one's life and has mine. I must say that the stabilizer bars I built for the rear of the car a few month's back really helped out the handling of the car. MY point is the little improvements here and there make this thing "Honda" such a joy and saviour in my life.

Thanks for reading and thanks you Hybrid Racing for help along this journey. There is alot more for me instore. I can't wait to get this thing running again and keep building the car's suspension (it handles good already) but I am sure it could get better. I miss the car deeply right now like something has died.

[JDMEK4COUPE]

Dammm Too bad to hear that bro...

[ProEG]

i am trying to figure if I should save my money and build a block or just replace bearings. Maybe do a ERL build or just buy the rods and pistons, oil pump, and have the crank balanced by some company.

what would you do??

[JDMEK4COUPE]

Did you take a look at your paypal account?

[TypeOne]

I am hoping that Hybrid Raing can help out some way with my axle, so I can order the bearings and get the car running again without breaking my bank. It is hard having health problems and having toys. I really needed this Honda in my life and plan to keep it running. Hopefully the bearing replacement will work and things will get back to normal and I can save slowly for a complete rebuild of the engine with a 12.5:1 compression cams and a 9500rpm redline.

.



Gabriel,

I spoke with the DSS and they are offering to help you with your axle situation. Send me an email and I will give you some options on what you can do.

David C
HybridRacing.com

[ProEG]

Did you take a look at your paypal account?

thanks man it means alot.

[ProEG]

Gabriel,

I spoke with the DSS and they are offering to help you with your axle situation. Send me an email and I will give you some options on what you can do.

David C
HybridRacing.com
will call tomorrow

[ProEG]

i am planning on buying new rods, new beaings, trying to reuse OEM pistons, buy new oil pump (Z1), and spinning crank and machine shop if needed. this should take place in about a month when I have all the money ready so I little to no down time. I have a friend at a machine shop to help out with spinning the crank from the rods bouncing around on the journal for .2 miles that it was driven when the knock occured. I am sure that there is crank damage. But this is the plan. I will keep socking away money for a new motor down the road. I would like to have a 10,000rpm beast one day and a 2000lb EG would be the right car to have it in. I woul be able to have traction and get the engine would like the light weight car and benifit from the light car.

[JDMEK4COUPE]

I think that the Type S 02-04 A2 Oil Pump is Better than the Z1.

[JDMEK4COUPE]

Did you take a look at your paypal account?

thanks man it means alot.


You are welcome bro!

[92Sleeper]

Pro EG. Where in VA are you?

You mentioned that you know someone at a machine shop and I'm looking for a shop in the NOVA area to install oil squirters in a K24a4 block. Trying to get my EG back on the road as well after punching a rod through the side of the block :(

[ProEG]

What's up hybrid.??

I am finally getting around to building my engine and this is what I got so far:

1. Blueprint I-Beam Rods
2.Brand new 04 typeS oil Pump
3. Forged pistons---can't find a 11.5 compression, so I might have to go with 11.7. Not real sure about 12.5
4. Crower stage2 cams--unless I can find a better deal and after seeing Blueprint's cam failure issues i am going with a trursted name
5. Crower valvesprings and steel retainers---I don't want TI cause they wear to fast
6. Stock rockers
7. I will determine the bearings when I get the crank respun

Any suggestions to my built realiable 9,000rpm K20 engine

[DecepticonDc5]

s2k oil pump kit?

i thought it was dangerous to go much further than 8500 with the S oil pump? i thought i read that somewheres.
http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/ERL-OP.html

[ProEG]

The typeS oil pump is better than 8500rpm, i have seen them safely rev to 9000rpm on the track many times road racing. I am considering the S2000 oil pump kit to be safe, it is very costly though. I will call Will at Hybrid to talk about altering my TypeS oil pump to make it safer

[TypeOne]

The stock Type S pump will cavitate after 8600rpm. If you rev higher than that you put your engine at risk, not only with low oil pressure, but because the chain tensioners are activated by oil pressure you could also damage the engine that way.

The S2000 oil pump is the best way to go if you want to *safely* rev to 9000rpm.

[JDMEK4COUPE]

That's right... Is safe way to do...

[Advorgo09]

saw this build on another forum. good man. i have mad envy for that silvia aero bumper. hahaha

[ProEG]

things are coming along good. should have this thing up in running in mid-Febuary.

things going on:

Blueprint Racing I-Beam rods
New OEM oil pump TypeS
New OEM Bearings
Buying 04 ITR Cams
Buying RBC
Buying OEM 11.7 TypeR pistons
New Water Pump
S2K valve springs and retainers

Basically I am building a strong Type R engine.

Thanks

[K20EH]

Looks good!!! Keep it up!!!

[JDMEK4COUPE]

Any Updates?

[K20EH]

Yea ^^ updates?

[ProEG]

IPS K2s and spring combo
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Brand new still in bags
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Blueprint I-Beam Rods
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I also have brand new K20a2 oil pump, headgasket. I am ordering an RBC Monday with a 64mm TB. The RBC will be ported out along with the cylinder head. I will tune first with the stock RBC. Take the RBC off take it home open it up port it, then reweld it. In less than 2 days time then re dyno to show how much power I made porting it myself. If we can tune to get more power we will.

I am working on some other stuff but it is top secret right now but will show as this porject goes along.

[ProEG]

I have a set of Eibach Ti retainers I want to get rid of. I want steel retainers. I would like to work out a deal with someone.

[ProEG]

Working on a wire tuck
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Wrapped and attached well
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engine is ready to come out....just the mounts holding it right now
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Sleeve side view for custom cold air intake
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Cut out for sleeve on white lines
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[ProEG]

Where the cold air blows into the engine bay. Part of secret cold air intake system
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Bus Bar installed for custom ground wires which will be tucked as best as possible
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Relocated clutch fluid res
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Bracket i made
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New Oil Cooler. Now I have to fab some mounts for this
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I need to repaint my engine bay and finish taping up electrical line and wire covering ends

[ProEG]

I took the PRB IM off my K20a2 and ported and polished it. My tuner has an EG with a bone stock K20a2 and he is using a PRB TypeS IM. He just finished tested a set of Kelford cams on his engine which are coming back off and the OEM K20a2 cams are going back in. When installs them he is putting the car back on the dyno. He is going to test my ported and polished PRB with the OEM cams (which I didn't go crazy on the porting b/c he is using OEM cams) to show the fruits of my labor. The car was on the dyno two weeks ago when he tested the Kelford cams, so the testing should be compairable seeing the weather is the same then as now.

I might be on to something here with the PRB manifold typeS IM that is the unwanted manifold and may be able to offer a service for people who want to run the PRB manifold. Hopefully I will make some power with my work.....we will see

Finished Product
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Finished Product
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OEM castings inside
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OEM castings inside
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OEM casting inside
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[t.schultz]

Nice!!! Looking good man!

[ProEG]

Today I did the passenger side wire tuck- charge harness, radiator fans, headlights, side markers, and where the charge harness connects to fuse box.
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Next is the CAI set up. I am looking for a temp sensor so I can read the air temps from inside the car on a gauge. I am going to have to source this stuff Friday. Home Depot and Lowes didn't have what I was looking for

[ProEG]

Relocated fuel filter and fabbed up this bracket from a scrap piece of aluminum
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Partial made scoop...need to finish the left side, then fiberglass mold it
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4" flex hose supply to air filter location---(Air Filter Box)
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think howmuch air will flow throught this at 80 plus mph
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I got a tucked ground wirw kit I will finish tonight

[ProEG]

Finished wire tuck on passenger side
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Tucked tie in into fuse box
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[JDMEK4COUPE]

Good Work! Keep it Up Bro!

[ProEG]

Good Work! Keep it Up Bro!

Thanks bro. I have some more ideas coming. Some of them are going to make people drool and want to buy them from me.....I am very sure of that. Thanks again man for that $10.00. I will have to send it back to you this week. PM me you info so I can send you a money order.------Peace

I am ordering a Hybrid racing chain tensioner (maybe 2), 2 RBC intake manifolds,and a couple other things Monday. Hybrid Racing is one of the best K-Series companies out there right now and I want to get an account set up through them by the end of the summer.

[JDMEK4COUPE]

Thanks bro. I have some more ideas coming. Some of them are going to make people drool and want to buy them from me.....I am very sure of that. Thanks again man for that $10.00. I will have to send it back to you this week. PM me you info so I can send you a money order.------Peace

I am ordering a Hybrid racing chain tensioner (maybe 2), 2 RBC intake manifolds,and a couple other things Monday. Hybrid Racing is one of the best K-Series companies out there right now and I want to get an account set up through them by the end of the summer.



Don't worry about bro! PM me your Ideas... Just keep the good work up!

[ProEG]

Don't worry about bro! PM me your Ideas... Just keep the good work up!

I will keep you updated. I am scared to let out all my ideas cause I want to get a little operation myself. Once I get some of them done, I will PM them to you once I get them done. Maybe we can do something together. Thanks about helping me with the axle problem I am having.

[JDMEK4COUPE]

I will keep you updated. I am scared to let out all my ideas cause I want to get a little operation myself. Once I get some of them done, I will PM them to you once I get them done. Maybe we can do something together. Thanks about helping me with the axle problem I am having.

Sure...:)

Keep it Up!

[ProEG]

" Lilly " my deaf pitbull american bull dog mix 80lb auto security system, she loves Hondas
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Switched to SS braided line from the clutch reservoir, may change back to a black rubber line
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welder behind the fender both sides..this shot is not completely welded up just half way
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fused welded underneath the fender every 6"
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In order to run a 4" flex feeder hose to my CAI box some of the box must be cut out as shown. I will drill a piece of rubber hose to keep the flex tube from rubbing against the hose
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It keeps getting better everyday

[ProEG]

Welded bumper to body instead of having 1 bolt holding on the bumper
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SS kicker supports from the body to fender all tacked up, I finished welding them today
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The other side tacked up, welding is also completed
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Insulated wires behind valve cover to protect from header heat
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Trick valve cover ground wire running to the 5pt. ground wire unit
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More to come...

[ProEG]

Finished port job on PRB intake manifold today
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Another shot
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Dropped the fuel tank to raise it up 4"
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Another view---1stgen Rcrew header positioning a little off withHasport 1st genmounts
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Started support bars fabbed today from scrap pipe, thus the extra weld SS
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More to come...tomorrow

I am scared to show my CAI box because no one has one like it and I don't want the design to be stolen just yet. I need an R stamp for it.

MOre to come......It just gets better Hybrid Racing you are going to die over some of the stuff I am doing this week. Call it the sleeper from VA now

[ProEG]

High Quality Copper Bus Bsr for custom tuckerd 5pt. ground wire kit. A line will be run back to the battery ground for maximum effect
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Shot before I install OEM gas tank. I wanted a fuel cell, but seeing I am on a budget the OEM will work fine
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Shot of existing piping from inside of car, battery is being relocated again for fun and show off bars
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A shot of my tuner's K20a2 EG swap. Nice engine bay he has there.
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Nice and polished IPS K2s
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More pics to come after tomorrow....Can't wait for this

I can't wait for my Hyrid Racing order to come in. Thanks Hybrid for everything some far and I can't wait to take a road trip to your shop soon, PEACE

[ProEG]

i am set up to pull the ehgine and put it on the stand and begin to take apart completely.

I will have parts to sell and will begin a port and polish on the cylinder head. Since I am going with the IPS K2s/ ported RBC/ 65mm TB/ R Crew header/ half 3" and half 2.5" exhaust/ custom 3" CAI system...I figure that porting the cylinder head will be needed. I am going with a muld port and polish on the cylinder head since I am looking for 240-245whp and a 9000rpm redline.....the top end power will be needed to taken advantage of.

Tomorrow I am fabbing the raised gas tank. I also installed a Walbro 255 fuel fump.

More to come hang tight for some tight custom chassis work.

[TypeOne]

Looks good, keep the updates coming

[ProEG]

Fuel tank is raised 4.25". Now I will support it from the bottom aslo tying in the rear subframe to the bottom b-pillar
ATTACH]286[/ATTACH]
started exhaust. 2.5"X3" with about 3.5' of 3" then it dropps back down to 2.5" going under the subframe/sway bar.
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Back half of the exhaust, the whole system has one bend in it and that isthe 90 turning into muffler. Carquest was out of the 90 deg fitting I wanted so I went with the cheap one...big deal. I can change it later when I change the muffler for a better one
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More to come tomorrow and more pics of the supporting of the rear subframe...

[ProEG]

Looks good, keep the updates coming
thanks man. I got more in store for you just hang on. The engine is coming out this Friday once I finish the fabricating.

[ProEG]

Function 7 rear lower control arms came into today
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Function7 rear sway bar end links
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Back half of exhaust
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Front half exhaust from header. 2.5" to 3" (stays 3" for 3 feet then transitions to 2.5") 2.5" resinator
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(2) RBC came in today. I am getting ready to cut one open, port/polish, and weld it back.
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While tuning my new engine we are going to start with the stock RBC then switch over to the ported RBC to check my porting skills. I want a piece of the pie too....

Tomorrow I am welding supports for the gas tank and rear subframe supports....all custom stuff that no one sells or has on their EG. I am making a one of a kind under cover race street car.

More to come Hybrid Racing........

[JDMEK4COUPE]

Great Stuff here! The best was in transit hehehe!

[ProEG]

I welded brackets to the bottom of the b-pillar, The two SS schedule 40 3/4" pipe hold the radiator in place. There will be a heat shield bolts to the bottom of the SS pipe where the exhaust passes underneath the gas tank. There is well over 3" under the gas tank
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Where the radiator support bars connect to the rear subframe. I made a rear subframe support from 1/4" steet angle. The angle is welded to the subframe all over with 1/4" tig weld beads
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The cut out of the support brace is so the exhaust can tuch as tightly to the subframe as possible. I have more rear subframe bracing planned for tomorrow as well as unidody supporting
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Stay tuned got some phat stuff going in tomorrow, stay tuned......Hybrid Racing this one of EG is coming to your shop when I get done!!

[ProEG]

Tie in plates to b-pillar
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L Braces for rear subframe to unibody
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Support bar to the L-Braces. Schedule 40 SS ( strong as shit )
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White bar is the harness bar/ B-pillar brace bar. It didn't come out as level as I wanted but it is my car I can mess it up if I want. I didn't catch it until I welded it up, that is what happens when I rush things
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Another upper rear strut tower bar support bar
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I ran out of Argon again so I couldn't finish what I wanted to do....I have to wait til Monday to refill the bottle

[ProEG]

Shot of resinator...and the homemade 3"X2.5" transition ( I am a pipefitter )
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R Crew 1st gen header.....hangs kind of low
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Flex/ transition to 3"
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Straight exhaust only one bend at the end......transitions back down to 2.5" with a transitions piece
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2.5" long bend 90 tucked uo to the subframe
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More to come.....this exhaust may make 1-2HP more because of the lack of bends

[ProEG]

I cut 07 RBC to see what the stock inside looks like
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I found out the RBC has smaller ports than the 04 TypeS head. So i had to do some port matching. I used a flashlight and feeler gauge
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Rough take out
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Finished port job....I may polish some more. I feel it is enough for IPS k2 (a stage 2 cam) based on taking out more metal for something along the lines of a 340whp engine. Common sense tells me to stick to Honda's set casting and tweak it a little
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Nice and tight cut and ready to be welded tomorrow
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When the car gets tuned I will have the tuner start with the stock RBC, then test it against my ported RBC, and the ported 04 TypeS IM. Then I can get a nice dyno sheet to prove my work based on my build and try to figure what is the best set up for my mild 2L build. I am going to buy sine 440CC injectors or modifiy mine. I hear it is easy.

Tomorrow I am getting the gas bottle refilled finishing some welding, fab a bracket for the radiator overflow tank, finsh some wiring, prep new fuel lines from tank, finish port matching on the cylinder head before I pull the engine, finish ground wire kit, fab oil cooler brackets and measure for lines running to it, change the exhaust a little, and then finally pull the engine out. I am going to tuck the engine harness a little better to.

Sending TB of to maxbore tomorrow also. I am also making a 3" exhaust for someone. So that will bring in some extra bucks.

More to come......

[JDMEK4COUPE]

Great Work!

[ProEG]

Pulling engine out. I have an I-beam in the ceiling off of my shop. Oonce the chainfall is hiiked to the engine, hoist out, and their is a rolller that shattles the I-beam so the engine canbe pushed out of the way
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repainted engine bay again and gace her mad coats of clear coat
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Cat back from beyond rear subframe dsigned so the muffler is tucked up inside the muffler and shoots out to the side...to keep noise from blaring on the car behind me
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Stripped hood and prepped for paint
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Painted underhood to match engine bay. It got a second coat
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More to come Hybrid.......

[ProEG]

On the stand
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Clean head
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Dirty 11.1 pistons....coming apart soon
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Painted tranny and bolts black along with shifter lever
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OEM valves that need to be cleaned...springs, and retainers. Good backups or for sale iteams
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More to come Hybrid...

[ProEG]

Started wrapping header
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cleaned axles and painted with rust proof black paint. I did the half shaft th esame way
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Painted inside of car flat black for fun
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THermo gauge inside car that tells me temps of air going into the filter inside my CAI box
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Painted bars red to match 02 Si seats
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More to come Hybrid......

[ProEG]

I keep all bolts, esnsors, and hardware inside plastic bags to make putting the engine back together easier
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shot of OEM clutch
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another....springs good. I was thinking if Exedy Stage 1 but I can wait until OEM goes
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Clamp plate still good
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Painted timing chain cover same as tranny
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More to come Hybrid......

[ProEG]

I have been working on the intake side for about the past 5 hrs. This is my version of a stage 1 port and polish and the correct adjustment to match my set up and cams and rpm range I am looking for. I didn't hog out metal and stuck wuth the OEM castings. I need to finish the intake side tomorrow.
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Another shit. I still have some more touch ups to do, then id is off tot he exhaust side which I feel will be easier,
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I ebjoy this kind od work and the cool is I am going on the dyno soon, I might want to think about the upgrade S2000 oil pump and make this baby sing. The smart thing to do is stick with 9000rpm with what I got then see if the dyno showa that going above 9000 is worth the S200 oil pump and all that other good crap to buy. More crap to buy. BUt If I am still making power above 9000 then it is something to consider

More to come HYbrid.........

[ProEG]

Great Work!

thanks man, more to come.....

[ProEG]

95% done porting and polishing intake side of head. I got started on the exhaust side today. I am about 50% done with that. I will take some pics tomorrow.

I walson got a bling SS radiator hose witht he kewl; blue and red fittings.I had to trim my radiator fan to make it work with the dremel to make it work.

Got more pics coming tomorrow. I painted my timing chain cover silver, then changed my mind and went black to mske it hide in there next to the engine bay walls.

Tomorrow the ported RBC is getting welded so I need to go over it one more time and port match it again to the previous port and polish on the intake side. I want this to be as perfect as possible. I just can't believe header's like rcrew's primaries are so much more bigger than the actual exhaust port on the K20a head. I made thet exhaust ports just a little bit bigger because of this but didn't wannt to stray away from the OEM exhaust port design.

More to come......

[ProEG]

Garlock gasket material. Used on high pressure piping systems its about 1/8 thick. it will work like the Hondata IMG
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making template----notebook paper and dirty hands make a perfect outline
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Hondata IMG didn't line up on the 04 cylinder head so I matched it to the port and thet RBC. Ran a feeler gauge and now I have a perfect fit head, IMG, and RBC for perfect flow
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New radiator hose
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Function7 rear lower control arms, 22mm sway bar, Function7 endlinks
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More to come.... Hybrid

[ProEG]

Since I raised the gas tank i had to replumb fuel lines
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Inside shot
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gas tank hooked up
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the rear of my car is stiff
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blocks apart, crank is of to the machine shop
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More to come....

Ordering:

11.7 pistons
valve keepers
retainer lockers
belt
oil/filter
coolent
moding stock injectors or looking for a good deal on some new ones

[ProEG]

Relocated fuel filter painted fuse box
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car is ready to be shipped 40 miles away where i will rebuild the engine
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god i love this rcrew header
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painted timing chain cover
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Hondata IMG on the RBC...doesn't match very well so i matched it too. All i care about is top end and mid-range for this car. around town i am going to putt around
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More to come Hybrid...

[ProEG]

I finally finished porting my RBC. I feel this is good enough......i will find out on the dyno
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[ProEG]

Made some changes to the RBC at the last minute. I am going to finally weld it tonight
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[t.schultz]

Damn that looks good!

[ProEG]

The welds
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Inside
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Inside
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I am sure this ported RBC will make power but the dyno will be the one to tell the truth. I hoping for good results.

I am still collecting parts. I cannot find where to order the new type R 11.7 pistons, rings, and pins. I should be on the dyno in less than a month. There I will compair my ported RBC to a Bone stock RBC. I will also compair a 65mm TB to a 70mm TB. I will be using 93 pump gas. IF we have time I will compair a ported Type S IM as well. Thanks.

[ProEG]

Damn that looks good!

thanks man

[ProEG]

Right now I am in the process of removing the undercoating spary from the car. I am guessing that it will drop around 20 to 30lbs off the car.

I am right now about $700 from completing the engine build and have tons of OEM 04 Type S parts sitting around the house:

-pistons and rods
-valve springs and retainers
-chain tensioner
-oil pump
- camshafts
-piston rings
-ported Type S intake manifold

Things are coming together slowly

[ProEG]

From the undercoating I shaveed off about 20lbs-- all four wheel wells and the underneath of the car. I then put three coats of paint on the metal. This is not a must do but b/t the undercoating and sound dead. material inside the car it is about a 38lb drop. Every bit helps. Now all I am waiting on is money to finish the car. Here is the list:

1. Pistons - FD2 11.7 86mm - $200 (Hmotorsonline.com)
2. Piston Rings - $28.37 X 4 - $113.48 (acuraoemparts.com)
3. Trust washer - $5.64 X2 - $11.28 (acuraoemparts.com)
4. Upper Main Bearings - $9.92 X6 - $59.52 (acuraoemparts.com)
5. Lower Main Bearings - $9.92 X6- $59.52 (acuraoemparts.com)
6. Rod Bearing - $9.58 X 8- $76.64 (acuraoemparts.com)
7. Blueprint Racing valvetrain kit - $130 (Blueprintracing.com)
8. Machine Shop - respin crank $100 (Local Shop)
9. RDX injectors - $160 (Hybrid Racing.com)
10. Belt
11. Oil
12.Antifreeze
13. 22mm Rear sway Bar bushing and C-Clip
14. Tune

Here of some pics of the gas tank sealed in and the how the exhaust will sit:

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Tonight I am working on a custom vaccum block, closed catch can, and radiator overflow using aluminum pipe. Hopefully I can come up with something. More to come Hybrid...

[ProEG]

I finished up the ground wire system tonight. IT has more thought put in to it than any ground wire kit that I have seen, not to mention that most of it is tucked an hidden.

I began work on the vaccum block tonight. I need to find some aluminum fittings to weld to the valve cover and weld the block up and it will pretty much be done. This is what I have so far:

378

Tapping and threading aluminum pipe by hand is not as easy as I thought in the sense of ending up with everything perfectly plumb. The exhaust will pull the vaccum and the PCV valve will be hooked into the system cause I am going to use a inline oil/fuel seperator before it hits the block.

More to come Hybrid..

[ProEG]

I have completed my custom ground wire system. From what I ahve seen online and in person no one is running a ground wire system like mine. From reading about K-series engines that having the engine grounded properly is very important. I remember when I would see articles and companies stating that having good ground wires added HP. I am not counting on that, I am counting on the fact that my system is the most efficient system that I have seen ever made. Most of my ground wire system is tucked as best as I could make it. Along with hitting the required areas that needed to be ground I added some extra ground wires for good measure. These are the areas I have grounded:

1. Transmission
2. Fuel Injectors
3. Valve cover
4. Intake Manifold
5. Alternator
6. Throttle Body
7. Fuel Pump Housing
8. Radiator Fans
9. Block
10. Cylinder Head

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I have two bus bars. A primary and secondary. The secondary bus bar is located in the engine bay where the TB,IM,, Alternator, Radiator fans, block, cylinder head, valve cover, and transmission are routed to. From the secondary bus bar, a ground wire is ran to the primary bus bar passing through the firewall. The primary bus bar is grounded to the chassis and has a ground wire connecting to the battery "-" terminal. The "-" terminal is grounded to the chassis. The fuse box gets a good ground from this too. The fuel pump housing gets a ground wire ran to the primary bus bar. This is the easiest way to ground all these different areas without having wires every where looking jumbled up. By doing this I am 100% certain that everything is grounded right. The bus bars allow me add any additional grounds if needed. Thanks for looking and I hope I inspired others to focus on good engine grounding.

I found my bus bars from a local boat Marine store " West Marine " and got the 4 gauge wire from an audio speaker store. The copper ends for the wires were bought at Pep Boys or Advance Auto. I sautered all the crimped end connections to make sure they do not come loose. All in all this was a pretty cheap way of doing a ground wire system.

[ProEG]

tonight I am working on prepping my vaccum block, oil catch can, and coolent overflow tank out of the same piece of aluminum pipe for welding. I need to locate aluminum fittings to weld on the valve cover. I can't remeber where I saw the fittings. I will google it....haha.

If I can get all this to work right it will look pretty trick and custom. I will also have good crankcase relief without having to use the intake manifold. The valvecover will have two fittings welded on it and the catch can will be a closed application. The vaccum block will pull vaccum on the catch can, thus the PCV valve will not be putting any crankcase fumes or oil into the intake manifold creating a clean combustion everytime.

I am trying to make this system and brackets universal so it can be sold off to whom ever wants it. It will be an exhaust vaccum producer system which is better than using the intake manifold. Also it will help with aiding the engine at high rpm's.

[ProEG]

$400 dollars away from finishing my build

During my tune I changed mymind how I wanted to do the test, here is how it goes:

1. Test bone stock RBC with 65mm
2. Baseline ported and polished RBC with 65mm opening- port matched 04 head/RBC/Hondata IMG
3. Ported and polished RBC with 70mm opening and 70MM TB- ported matched 04 head/RBC/Hondata IMG

I just need to aquire another RBC and a 70mmTB to do the test. So if I am going to do this test I need to find some help with parts. I do not mind buying another RBC..it is the 70mmTB that I need a donation from or I am going to have to dig up the money to buy that. If I can find a donar for the 70mm TB and it works the best I will buy it.

This is an in house test that Hybrid Racing, Blueprint Racing, Skunk2, Hytech Exhaust or any of the main companies are not helping out with. So there will be no baised testing going on here. I am porting and polishing the RBCs and the testing will be done on a Dynapack 3000. The shop where the tuning and testing will be done at has nothing to gain and is air conditioned, so it is a good place to carry on the testing.

If anyone can help with an RBC or 70mm please help out. This is a hot topic right now in the battle b/t the RRC, RBC, and the ported RBC. Then the test will leave room for anothe test with the RRC bone stock or ported. I feel that the ported and polished RBC on a mild build 2L with good stage 2 cams will shine like a mother sucka.-Gabe

[ProEG]

Well I am not $400 away from finishing my build cause I have to buy another RBC and a 70mmTB. I do not know why I doing this test..I should have just stuck to my guns and gone with a 65mm TB, but R&D is part of the game and I want to be apart of the game. I am going to show that I know how to port the RBC at 70mm too.

I am 80% done with porting and polishing another RBC for a 70mm TB. A few more spots to smooth out and weld it up. I am very curious to see what happens on the dyno b/t the 65mm RBC and the 70mmRBC. All in all I am having fun and that is what this is about.

When I am done dyno testing I will have a ported and polished RBC for sale...it will be either a 65mm or 70mm. I will also have a TB for sale ...a 65mm or 70mm.

If anyone has a 70mm TB that would like to send me to do this test I could use the help. I will not rip you off. My sister business is doing the testing and we do not want a bad name. If the 70mmTB wins the test I will buy it from the person who lent it to me. I will also pay for the shipping here. The test is in the name of Honda and the progression of the scene. It is also dedicated to people going out and doing things on their own and growing as individuals. Developing and creating their passions and watching what their own two hands can do, what their brains are capable of.

Right now I have developed 5 kits that are basically universal for the 92-95 EG or EK's that can use an EG front subframe. All of my kits are well thought out and are one of a kind, so by no means have I copied anyone and none of my stuff looks like anyelse's stuff. Right now I am getting local notice and as soon as my car build is done and tuned I will be at as many local Honda car meets in my area repping my stuff and hopefully Hybrid racing..if I can get involved with Hybrid on one of my kits. I plan on driving down there to show them what I have in store.

I have a suspension part that I want to take to this really cool local machine shop, who can make just about anything you design to the "T". I was wondering if they would douplicate it and I could use ut on my car. I am not sure it if it a smart idea or how well it would hold up vs. the OEM part. It doesn't use press in bushings, things are threaded into it so that is why I am wondering if it would be a bad idea. IF they could do it at a fair price I am going to try it. IT would look killer with the OMNI front lower control arm.

Well I am going to weld my vaccum block, 70mmRBC, oil catch can, and coolant over flow tank in the next few days. I will take pics when I am done.

More to come Hybrid..I am pressing on this Honda scene. And my car looks bone stock on the outside minus the Kosei K1 wheels. I love the sleeper look with the built and cammed typeR engine under the hood. I can't wait to turn a few BMW and Vette owner's heads when my engine starts singing

[ProEG]

i am proud to say i finally got enough money to finish my build. i get to sit on the phone ordering parts all day tomorrow. Finally I little 2L monster will be born and unleashed on the streets to take the lead on the prey. i hope when we get done testing manifolds and TB's that we will hit in the 240-250whp zone with the IPS cams and manifold work along with 11.7 pistons, and there is some cylinder head work as well.

After tuning i will have a ported RBC either made for 65mm or 70mm so get it for cheap also a 65mm or 70mm TB as well with custom gaskets.

PICS coming soon.....

[ProEG]

Pics of the 70mm RBC it is different than the 65mm rbc....it moves more air
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[ProEG]

got a basically new crank for build---$75

the gods love me.

[JDMEK4COUPE]

WOW!!! Sick Thread my Friend!:D:D:D

[ProEG]

WOW!!! Sick Thread my Friend!:D:D:D

Thank you !!!

I hit a stand still until i get more money to finish.

The low down......

1. Bore block to .025 and use 11.5-R pistons
2. All new bearings everywhere

That is it to finish engine, load a base map for a bit to break in engine, and finish with tuning and testing both RBC manifolds.

Hang in there Hybrid...

[ProEG]

Blueprint racing I-beam vs PRB
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Don't F-Around my dog....Sublime
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[ProEG]

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This intake is cheap to make. The SS heatsheild uses stock bolt patterns in the engine bay. The filter is inside the sheild and has a 4" supply tube feeding the box the filter is in...The black rubber fitting surrounding the intake pipe acts as a cushion if the engine moves...not with real mounts or for looks

Who wants to know how..??